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Solving HDMI Problems

Solving HDMI Problems from HDTV SupplyHDCP / HDMI Handshake Troubleshooting and Guidelines from www.hdtvsupply.com:

PLEASE PRINT THIS OUT FOR FUTURE USE OR BOOKMARK IT AS IT IS UPDATED DAILY!

Warning!!.....Never connect and disconnect HDMI cables and equipment while your devices are powered on (hot plugging cables). The hdmi cables carries a low DC voltage while connected. You will damage your equipment and the HDMI Distribution equipment while hot-plugging cables which will not be replaced under the 1 year manufacturers warranty. Only use the Switched Mode Power supply supplied with the HDMI Equipment since replacing the power adapter might damage your equipment if incorrect voltage is supplied to the equipment.

FREQUENT QUESTIONS & ANSWERS


Q: I'm not getting a picture with my component t CAT6 balun, can you help?
A:
Most common problems are caused by the following:
  • You have confused the Sender and the Receiver
  • You have mismatched the RGB colors on the cable connections to the box and equipment
  • You are using a Cat5 cable that is too long or is not straight through
  • You have not connected the power supply, or it is not powered
  • Your Monitor does not support the resolution that you are sending it, in which case you should check operation w/o the Balun first
Q: I seem to have a resolution error, can you help?
A:
Check Your Source Device's Video Resolution Output Setting: If your Blu-ray Disc player or other HDMI source device has a video resolution output setting menu, check to see if it is set to AUTO. If so, reset it to match the native resolution of your TV or video projector (such as 720p or 1080p) and see if that provides a more stable result.

Q: I'm starting to build an HDMI home theater system, what should I keep in mind?
A:
Here are some best practices to remember;
  • Use Active equipment over Passive wherever possible
  • Insure all devices are on the most recent firmware
  • Insure all devices are on the same AC circuit if possible
  • Keep solid HDMI runs under 25ft (use 24AWG) and go to HDMI over CAT5e/6 baluns over that
  • Use best cabling possible, the higher bandwidth the better
  • Dont over complicate the system with too many devices in series
  • Try to buy all the HDMI devices and HDMI cables from one vendor as they have probably all been tested with each other assuring a system that will work
Q: Everything was working and now I don't see video on my TV, what do I do?
A:
You may have lost your HDCP handshake so power cycle all devices by resetting them or pulling the AC plug (TV's, cable boxes, DVD players, splitters, switchers, etc - all) and it may come back. Also unplug the HDMI cables, blow across the pins (not in) and re-insert them as a piece of dust may have got in.

Q: I'm see sparkles, flashing and sometimes a blank screen using an HDMI extender over CAT5, got any tips?
A:
Drop the source devices resolution to 720p and if it clears up then your CAT5 cable is probably too long for the resolution you are trying to send so re-read the specs. You can also replace the cable with CAT6 solid as that is one of the best for long HDMI distances.

Q: I get a great picture but no audio, how can I fix this?
A:
Your source HDMI audio settings and your destination audio settings may not be matched so set them so that they are like PCM to PCM or Stereo to Stereo or Dolby Digital to Dolby Digital, etc. Incidentally in the 19 wires in the HDMI technology there is no audio wire nor video wire as they are all digital signals. For more see our HDMI wiring diagram.

Q: I have a 1x2 HDMI splitter, a Blu-ray, a 1080p TV and a 720p TV and don't see a picture on my 720p TV, what am I doing wrong?
A:
Your Blu-ray is probably set at 1080p and your 720p TV can't accept that many pixels so set your DVD player to 720p. If you don't want to do that then you will need one of our HDMI Resolution Changers or possibly buy a new 1080p TV at Costco. Also if your Blu-ray, etc has a video resolution output setting menu, check to see if it is set to AUTO. If so, change it to match the native resolution of your TV, such as 720p or 1080p, for better video.

Q: I just bought an in-line HDMI booster for my 75 foot HDMI cable and still aren't getting a picture, why?
A:
Many devices like PC video cards and AV Surround sound receivers are notorious for not conforming to the HDMI spec of providing a stable 5 volt at 55 mill-amp output to power the chip in your in-line HDMI booster as well as we have seen many many devices that can't drive long HDMI cables due to their poor HDMI switching design.

You have 3 solutions:
a. Replace it with a Powered HDMI Booster. This may still not work if your HDMI cable is 28 gauge or smaller.
b. Replace it with an HDMI extender over CAT6.
c. Move your equipment and use a shorter 24 gauge HDMI cable.

Lastly, your long HDMI cable may have been damaged upon its installation so read Long Cable Install Tips.

Q: Before I buy a new HDMI cable, I would like to ask you for some advise.. I bought a new AV Receiver, and hooked up my Sony 3D blu-ray player to it and I get a lousy picture and sound is dropping...not DTS just PCM. It hooks up to my non-3d TV without issue, but not the receiver. The HDMI cables I have are old and unknown. but I've tried 2 of them. and different ports on the receiver. Also have plugged in other Non 3D devices to the same ports without issues. Is it possible that my cables are too old and because the receiver can handle 3D and the Blu-ray can that I need a newer HDMI Cable or is there a better solution?
A: It sounds like you need an a high speed HDMI 1.4 rated cable that will handle faster speeds and 3D and Ethernet.

Q: I just connected my HDMI DVD player to my old TV with DVI with an HDMI to DVI cable and don't get any sound, why?
A:
DVI is video only so see if you have a stereo connector right besides the DVI "digital" connector and buy one of these audio cables.

Q: I just connected my HDMI DVD player to my old TV with DVI with an HDMI to DVI cable and don't get any video, why?
A:
Your DVI display must be HDCP compliant (read its manual) and its resolution (read its manual) must match the DVD player...like 720p to 720p or 1080i to 1080i, etc.

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Expressions used in document

Display: Any LCD / Plasma / Projector or any other screen with a DVI, HDMI or DisplayPort input

Source Device: Any Blu-ray Player, DVD Player, Gaming Console (PS3, Xbox 360), Apple TV, HD PVR or any device with a DVI, HDMI or DisplayPort Output.

Power cycle: Power off / Power on equipment (At the wall socket since some LCD's will still provide a low voltage to HDMI Distribution Equipment via the HDMI port if it is changed to standby mode via remote and HDMI Distribution Equipment will never power cycle completely if still powered via HDMI port). Wait 10 seconds or more after equipment was powered off to be powered on again.

HDMI: High-Definition Multimedia Interface. Interface / Connector used to connect source devices and displays with each other to provide high bandwidth video and audio (Resolutions up to 2560x1600 75hz / 1600p / Quad-HD + 8-Channel Audio, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio).

HDMI Distribution Equipment: HDMI / DVI Splitters, HDMI / DVI Switches, HDMI / DVI Extenders, HDMI/DVI Converters or any equipment on the network between the source and display (Amplifiers / digital receivers included if used between source and display as HDMI switch e.g. multiple inputs to 1 monitor-out HDMI port). In general digital receivers and amplifiers must support the HDCP Repeater bit if used between source and display together with HDMI Extenders, Splitters or Switches. For description of the HDCP Repeater bit please see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI_repeater_bit. All HDMI Distribution Equipment supports the HDCP / HDMI Repeater Bit.

HDMI handshake: The exchange of encrypted keys between the source / player and the LCD and HDMI Distribution equipment. Each device features a unique set of keys which need to be accepted by the display and source before video/audio is displayed. HDMI Handshake issues occur when the LCD or source does not accept the keys from HDMI Distribution equipment.

HDMI / HDCP Handshaking issues: Problems with Video or Audio on your display (Mostly caused by an encryption named High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP). HDCP handshake issues rarely occur when all sources, hdmi distribution equipment and displays are always powered on 24x7. Since we do power-off displays and source devices most issues occur when these devices are powered on again to re-negotiate the HDCP handshake between source and display.

There is a recommended power-on sequence below if you regularly power cycle your equipment. There are often handshake issues simply due to a poor connection. Even if the HDMI cable fits securely please ensure that there are no sharp bends of the cable or the cable is causing the hdmi port to bend.

Secure / fasten cables neatly against the wall and ensure it is not hanging from device hdmi ports which can cause equipment damage. Ensure all HDMI / DVI Cables and Equipment used are HDMI v1.3, HDCP 1.2 capable. Your display must be at least HDMI v1.1 compatible for HDMI Equipment to work effectively and must be able to accept HDMI v1.3 signals to downscale.

HDCP is a form of digital copy protection developed by Intel Corporation to prevent copying of digital audio and video content as it travels across DisplayPort, Digital Visual Interface (DVI), High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI), Gigabit Video Interface (GVIF), or Unified Display Interface (UDI) connections, even if such copying would be permitted by fair use laws. The specification is proprietary, and implementing HDCP requires a license. For more info on HDMI Handshake discussions / explanations please see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDCP.

General HDCP / HDMI Handshake problems and guidelines: When a HDMI / HDCP Handshaking issue occur the easiest way to re-negotiate the handshake is to power cycle the source device or the display. Always wait 10 seconds or longer when the display or source has been power cycled for the HDMI distribution equipment to reset hdmi handshake / timing. Some displays may also re-negotiate the handshake when swopping to another input e.g. AV1 ,AV2 or another HDMI Port (wait 10 seconds) and swopping back to correct HDMI Input via remote control. HDMI Distribution equipment should never be powered off since it provides the path for the HDCP / HDMI Handshake between source and display.

Some devices such as switches and HDMI Switches / Combo splitters also allow for HDMI handshake re-authentication by switching from one input to another and back to the input having HDCP handshaking issues. If power cycles on the Display or Source does not prove to be effective power cycle all HDMI equipment (Source, HDMI Distribution Equipment, Receivers / Amplifiers and Displays). If HDCP errors still occur you need a firmware upgrade to sort out the HDMI port timing / handshake issues on the source or display.

Please contact your Source device, Display or Digital receiver manufacturer for a firmware upgrade and advice on hdmi handshake issues. It is often extremely difficult to troubleshoot these issues since the HDTV supplier will blame the source supplier, will blame the digital receiver supplier, will blame the Hdmi Distribution supplier etc. etc. If going through your total home entertainment setup, make sure all your equipment has the latest firmware.

Recommended Power-up sequence to reduce HDCP / HDMI Handshake problems - Also used when changing or connecting HDMI sources, distribution equipment or displays:
  • Power-off all equipment (At the wall socket).
  • Ensure all Cables, Splitters, Switches, Extenders are connected within the HDMI Distribution Network.
  • Power on all Splitters, Switches, Extenders within HDMI Distribution Network.
  • Power on all displays and set to HDMI input from HDMI Distribution Network (Source device need to be able to contact display to retrieve EDID information)
  • Power on Sources / Players. Ensure that a path is open from source to display for HDCP handshake negotiation by selecting the proper input on HDMI Switches or HDMI switch/splitter combo's via the remote control (Sources negotiates HDCP Handshake via HDMI Network to displays which is set to HDMI input to respond to handshake).
Some displays will negotiate HDCP handshake / timing better if the source are already powered on and you may need to change points 3,4,5 above to 4,3,5 or 4,5,3 depending on your equipment.

Common HDCP Handshake Troubleshooting: The problems and troubleshooting below can be done on any HDMI handshake issues even if it is not listed under the specific category of problems you are experiencing.

HDMI Distribution and why HDCP issues sometimes occur: When HDMI Players, gaming consoles and displays are powered on 24-hours a day without switching to standby mode or switching to another HDMI source, HDMI issues mainly occur because of unstable voltage on HDMI ports on Source / LCD or AC/DC adapter which feeds power to the HDMI Distribution Equipment.

Some equipment will never have hdmi handshaking problems while others will have a certain sequence to establish the hdmi handshake for the signal transfer (audio / video). If the manufacturer of the display or source cannot provide a firmware upgrade you will need to adapt to a sequence of resuming equipment from standby via remote. This sequence is normal behavior because of HDCP design on HDMI Players and displays.

Most HDCP sources (HD PVR, PS3, Xbox, Blu-ray Players) need a hdmi route / path to the display to retrieve display capabilities / resolution capabilities when the source is powered on e.g If you use an HDMI switch and HDCP certified digital receiver / amplifier between Playstation 3 and LCD ensure that the receiver and hdmi switch is set to the correct input for the Playstation 3 when powered on to communicate 'through' all devices between source and LCD to establish the HDMI handshake and retrieve EDID configuration from the display to ensure the correct resolution is displayed. Some displays and sources do hdmi handshake and display EDID detection in real-time and the 'hdmi path' e.g switching to correct input on receivers and HDMI switches can be done anytime and is not required before LCD and source are resumed from standby mode.

In the case of the DSTV HDPVR which we normally do not put in standby via remote or power off you may have to adapt to a certain sequence depending on your display capabilities. E.g Some displays only recognizes a change on the HDMI port and will do a HDMI handshake when the signal is dropped and reconnected e.g. if your HDPVR is powered on 24-hours a day, but you do change your LCD to standby mode via remote the LCD may not recognize the HDPVR as a source when resumed from standby since it still has an active HDMI connection even when in standby mode if the HDMI port on the display emits a low voltage. To get past this issue put the source (HDPVR in this case) into standby and resume it from standby after 8 seconds or more after the LCD has been powered on / resumed from standby on the remote and set to the correct input HDMI port. Some displays may require you to press the P+ or P- button on the remote to negotiate the HDCP handshake again after the HDPVR was resumed from standby.

The problem with HDMI switchers / splitters is there is no one switch / splitter that is compatible with every device out there. In fact, even with the same brands, one model of DVD player may work with a particular switch but a different model will not. Also, compatibility is not specific to a single device. Instead it's a 3 way relationship between the source, the switch / splitters and the display. So, a particular dvd may work through a particular switch to a certain TV, but not to another TV, but that TV may work through the switch with another DVD player. Given that, you end up with infinite number of possible combinations so it's impossible to know based on brands what devices will work with a particular switch and what won't. The trick is to find a switch / splitter that will work with your particular combination of devices. In theory, a switch / splitter will work with every device but only if it's connected in turn to another device that it is compatible with. Unfortunately, finding the right switch is a bit of trial and error in some rare cases.

General 1:1 (or digital receiver between source and display) HDMI handshake troubleshooting: If you are having HDMI handshake issues / audio video drops in general without HDMI Distribution equipment (e.g. Source device directly connected to display with HDMI Cable or if your Digital Receiver is not recognized by the display as an HDCP device if between source and display) you might want to use a HDMI Switch between the source/receiver and the display. The receiver /source device then handshakes with the switch, the switch regenerates the handshake protocol and then handshakes with the display. The switch which has another HDMI timing/chipset than the source device then negotiates with the display. Only use this method as a last resort if no additional firmware upgrades are possible to the source device or the display.

HDCP handshake issues can be caused by the HDMI cables that are used if the pins are damaged or the cable does not conform to the correct HDMI specifications. Change the cable to test if this is the case before inserting a switch between source and display and use gold plated connector cables for best possible signal transfer on HDMI connections.

Most displays / sources have a sequence of buttons to press on the remote control or an option in the Menu to reset to factory defaults. Use this sequence or option to reset source / display to factory defaults and check if the HDMI Handshake issues are solved.

Flashing picture, no picture, audio popping or crackling sound, sparkles on image or no audio (When using HDMI Distribution Equipment): Ensure that the shortest possible (normally 1 Meter HDMI to HDMI cable) is used from the source to the HDMI Distribution Equipment (Especially HDMI Splitters). From the HDMI Distribution Equipment output, cable lengths can be up to 15 Meters since the signal is equalized by most HDMI Equipment to allow longer cable lengths. Video flickering / dropping of signal can indicate a faulty cable. Replace the cable with another one to test if cable pins might be damaged.

Use General Guidelines e.g. power cycle source or display or swop input to AV input on display and back to correct HDMI input.

If using HDMI Distribution equipment with a Remote Control e.g. HDMI Switch / Splitter combo's or HDMI Switch only press the required input on the remote control to re-negotiate the HDCP handshake. Do not press remote button more than once within 10 seconds intervals since the HDMI re-negotiation can take 8 - 10 seconds which is normal.

Some displays might loose the HDMI audio completely if HDMI sync is lost from display to HDMI Equipment and will not reset the HDMI handshake automatically. It has been found to work in rare cases to unplug the display completely from electrical wall socket for several hours (24-hours if possible) and unplug any HDMI cables connecting to the display as well to ensure no power is connected to display since the HDMI cable still carry 5v+ voltage on the cable from external devices and needs to be unplugged. Re-connect the HDMI cable and power-on the LCD after a few hours and HDMI audio should be restored. Alternatively contact the display manufacturer to get a factory reset code to reset display to defaults.

Most HDMI Distribution equipment also feeds voltage from the HDMI Ports on the LCD's and sources. When all equipment has been power cycled and BEFORE LCD's / Sources are powered on again ensure that the HDMI Distribution equipment is also power cycled by unplugging / plugging both the power AND the HDMI cables connecting to the equipment which provides power for it to be completely powered off.

Digital sparkles occur because of transmission / bandwidth issues. Check to ensure that high quality Category 5, 6 or 7 networking cables are used on extender sets between sender and receiver units. CAT5/e Unshielded is not recommended and not supported at all, CAT6/ CAT6e Unshielded up to 40 meters (if no electrical interference nearby), CAT5e Shielded up to 30 Meters, CAT6 Shielded up to 50 Meters and beyond 50 meters up to 65 Meters CAT7 (All pairs shielded individually) 10 Gbit/s cabling needs to be used. The maximum transmission bandwidth on HDMI CAT6 / CAT7 Extenders are 10.2Gbps and 2 x 10Gbit/s CAT7 cables will achieve the transmission bandwidth required and HDMI v1.3 resolutions and capabilities.

Digital sparkles can occur by coupling or extending HDMI cables beyond the recommended 18 Meter Lengths on 24AWG Category 2 rated cables. If using 28 AWG cables and digital sparkles occur switch to a lower resolution or use 24AWG Category 2 cables for higher bandwidth transmissions over longer distances.

Usage of Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) cables are not recommended with HDMI or any video / audio equipment over CAT5e / CAT6. The usage of grounded cable FTP (Foil Twisted pair) or STP (Shielded Twisted pair) are mandatory to ensure CAT5e / CAT6 is grounded properly and best signal transfer is done via STP / FTP cable for syncing video/audio TMDS channel on HDMI.

Another cause of digital sparkles on HDMI Extenders / Baluns is when the CAT5e / CAT6e cabling is not inserted into the ports correctly, hanging from ports or skew inserts due to incorrect fastening / securing to a surface. Push the cables (even when it clicks into place) another 1-3 millimeters inwards to ensure it makes a secure connection with the pins to transfer the signal properly.

As a quick test to see if video/audio drops or digital sparkles is caused by a UTP / STP CAT5e/6 cable, swop the DDC and TMDS CAT cables used for an extender set / balun around on both the receiver and transmitter side (Swop CAT5e/6 port 1 & 2)

Disable the HDMI Clock control on your display if you have a problem with HDMI over CAT5/CAT6e converters or other HDCP issues. Each display manufacturer has it's own defined button combinations to press to access the service menu. Go though all menu's on the service menu to check if the display HDMI Clock control settings can be disabled. Write down ALL values before changing any values to ensure it can be changed back to original setting if needed. If you are not qualified to service your television, please DO NOT ENTER these service menu codes. Some display manufacturers common combinations listed below.

Samsung displays:
  • Power down the display via remote.
  • Go into manufactures settings (press in sequence: Info, Menu, Mute, Power - From the Remote)
  • Scroll down to '10 Adjust' and hit OK (Will differ on various models)
  • Scroll down to 'HDMI' and hit OK (Will differ on various models)
  • Scroll down to 'Clock Control' and change from 'On' to 'Off' with Left, Right arrows.
  • Press 'Menu' to return to previous menu and save settings (Can be indicated by '??????' on the menu on some displays.
  • Power Down
  • Power Up
Many LG displays: Press the menu button on the TV Unit for 60 Seconds OR Press Both Remote & TV Menu Buttons together for 60 Seconds.

Many Panasonic displays:
  • Hold down the {VOL -} button ON THE PLASMA TV.
  • Press the {RECALL} button 3 times on the remote. (On some remotes the {STATUS} button needs to be pressed 3 times and not {RECALL} to access service menu)
  • The Service Menu will be displayed.
  • Use {1} {2} on remote to navigate main menu items.
  • Use {3} {4} on remote to navigate sub-menu items.
  • Use {VOL+} {VOL -} on remote to change item value.
  • Once a value is changed, THE CHANGE IS MADE and no saving needed.
  • Power off to exit service mode and save.
Many Sony displays:
  • With the TV off press in this order (on the remote):
  • 'Display' (or some LCD's requires 'Info' to be pressed)
  • '5'
  • Volume 'Up'
  • Power
Many Philips displays: Service Menu can be accessed by tapping in 062596 (without pause) and then hitting the i+ button. You then push *any* key to get into the service menu itself, and this will *not* be making any changes to your set. You can also get out of the service menu at any time by pressing the 'menu' button.

Many Toshiba displays:
  • Turn the TV on.
  • Press the {MUTE} button three times on the remote.
  • Press the {MUTE} button again on the remote and hold.
  • Then press the {MENU} button on the TV's front panel.
  • Release both buttons
  • There should be a letter 'S' on the upper right of the screen.
  • Press the {MENU} button on the TV's front panel again.
  • You are now in Service Menu.
  • Use the {CH+} or {CH-} buttons to select the item.
  • Use the {VOL+} and {VOL -} buttons to adjust the value.
  • Turn the set off to exit the Service Menu.
If you have no video or video and no audio and you have installed a HDMI Extender over CAT5e / CAT6 / CAT7 please check the 2-pairs of cables between transmitter and receiver to ensure it is correctly terminated according to UTP/STP Standard 568B

No Audio from source on display via HDMI (DVI does not produce audio on display) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

HDCP handshake is lost every few seconds, Normally when this happens the display resolution is also dropped to 480p. Use General Guidelines Section.

HDCP handshake issues can be caused by the HDMI cable that is used if the pins are damaged or the cable does not conform to the correct HDMI specifications. Change the cable to test if this is the case and use gold plated connector cables for best possible signal transfer on HDMI connections.

If you have no video / audio or video / no audio and you have installed a HDMI Extender over CAT5e / CAT6 / CAT7 please check the 2-pairs of cables between transmitter and receiver to ensure it is correctly terminated according to UTP/STP Standard 568B and that quality CAT Cabling is used conforming to the specifications of the extender set. Ensure that power is supplied and stable using the AC/DC Adapters supplied with the HDMI Distribution Equipment.

No Audio can also be caused by HDMI timing and sometimes the display HDMI port will not re-negotiate back to HD (720p / 1080p). In such a case display and source needs to be both powered off for 5 - 10 minutes (I know this does not makes sense but we had some rare cases previously where HDMI timing/handshake refused to reset if powered off for < 5 minutes ) and needs to be powered back on again.

Display does not negotiate HDMI Handshake when power cycled (Shows flashing picture, snow or screen scrambled and have different colors or no Picture / Audio) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

On some displays this is normal and no firmware upgrade exists to fix the problem. In these cases the source device can be powered off / powered on via remote control to re-negotiate handshake while display is powered-on and set to correct HDMI Input.

This can be caused by low-voltage HDMI sources since the HDMI distribution equipment need to have a constant uninterrupted power supply to function properly. Please check AC / DC adapter of the HDMI distribution equipment to ensure that the device does not receive power only from the HDMI port from the source but from the external electrical wall socket as well via the supplied AC / DC adapter (DC Current : 5 Volts, 2000mAh).

Use the General Guidelines section above.

Use the Recommended Power-up sequence above

You may have a digital receiver / amplifier between the source and display which does not support the HDCP Repeater bit to work together with HDMI distribution equipment. Connect sources --> HDMI Distribution --> display, bypassing digital amplifier. In these cases digital audio will be from the coaxial or optical Toslink outputs from the sources to the digital amplifier / receiver. In this case you will only receive Toslink / Digital Coaxial capable audio e.g. Dolby Digital / DTS and not TrueHD / DTS Master Audio from Blu-rays / HD DVD's.

Intermittent video / audio drops every few minutes (Timings between these drops can vary and can last for up to 20 seconds per drop and sometimes the HDCP handshake might not re-negotiate again e.g. no audio / video after drop) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

If a high power-usage device is connected to the same surge protection plug, electrical wall socket or electrical circuit-breaker such as air-conditioning units or heaters that powers off / on automatically these audio / video drops can occur when the high power device switches on. This can also damage your hdmi equipment and electrical damage is not covered under the manufacturers warranty. Please move high power devices to another electrical wall socket / circuit-breaker and to prevent power spikes / interruptions use a UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply) for all HDMI Distribution Equipment AC/DC adapters power sources.

This can be caused by low-voltage HDMI sources since the HDMI distribution equipment need to have a constant uninterrupted power supply to function properly. Please check AC / DC adapter of the HDMI distribution equipment to ensure that the device does not receive power only from the HDMI port from the source but from the external electrical wall socket as well via the supplied AC / DC adapter (DC Current : 5 Volts, 2000mAh). Never use another AC/DC adapter except for the supplied adapter since you will damage the equipment and the manufacturer will not replace it if over-voltage occur.

Troubleshooting HDMI: HDMI while it is becoming a standard in the home it is new to many of us. HDMI is digital and has different limits and attributes then we have been use to in the analog world.

Standard procedure should be is to stage the system before it gets installed. Make sure all the peripherals work well with one another with the type of cabling you intend on using. Even though the system should perform with good products and installation techniques, it never beats testing the system before it gets installed...

First Rule: Before you install or run cables through your walls hook everything up. Lay it on the floor and see if everything works with your TV and operates and you get sound and a good picture before you install it.

Second Rule: Shut everything down before you plug in your cables. Then power everything up. If you did not power down and plugged in your cables this could be the problem. Power everything down and then turn everything back on. If you still have problems see if our easy guide can help you with your symptoms.

Symptom 1 - No Picture: Shut everything down, and then restart the system with all the connections in place. Watch the screen. If you see a notification of resolution (this is a function of the sink, source or both and may not be available on all equipment) chances are the DDC line has communicated between source and sink. This is good! The problem is probably video related. If you are using an active product like a cable box or satellite box, try using a DVD player. Many times the player comes on with the brands logo showing. If the picture goes off when you think the program material should have started, it could be that the HDCP is not getting the proper key.

This can be a cable issue or a hardware compatibility issue. Remember that the HDCP keys are transferred using the DDC line on the cable. The most likely culprit is the cable. If this is a long cable run then you need to try to trouble shoot this.

First, try a shorter cable if possible, or try another cable brand. It might be that another brand has less capacitance in the DDC line. Another possibility is that the internal capacitance of either the source or sink is on the high side of the allowable capacitance limit. In that case, you can swap out the source and/or display to see if a different configuration solves the problem. If it works on a short cable then you should be able to get it to work on a long cable up to 50ft without a HDMI amplifier. However if you purchased a very cheap cable you will need to rethink your purchase. A HDMI amplifier may help you. You would install it as follows... Short cable HDMI Amplifier Long cable. This way you have the strongest signal possible for the long run.

Symptom 2 - Sparkles: Usually more noticeable on black areas, sparkles tell you that you have a video data transmission problem. In most cases this is cable related. It could be just that the cable is not performing very well due to its length or it is picking up electrical interference. Shortening will improve the integrity greatly. Did you run the HDMI cable near electrical wires? If so try to move them and see what happens. You could also try to add a cable EQ to the system. Remember that, in most cases, a cable EQ has to be located at the very end before it enters the sink.

Symptom 3 - Flashes, No Audio, Pink Screen: This is usually caused from a bad DDC line not communicating properly. It can be time consuming because you have to basically eliminate all the good things to find the bad. First, power up the system while all the HDMI cables are connected. Then, if you can, try the products with shorter cables.

Here you need to see if the system works at all. Hopefully you have tried all these products before they were installed If for some reason the system still fails to come on, start using different inputs. You may find that your cable box will work and your DVD may not or vice versa. This can happen because of stray capacitance on the DDC line. This stray capacitance may be inherent in the hardware itself. If you think that this is the problem, try getting a DDC line conditioner. We have seen these types of problems completely go away when conditioning is introduced.

Symptom 4 - Picture Comes On, Then Goes Off This is a common one. In most cases, it is one of two things. If one or more of the video TMDS channels has a high bit error rate or is not working at all, youll have this problem. Many times it may come back with tear lines through it. It all depends on the display and how it reacts to the lack of complete data.

The second case is the DDC line is just not quite making it and HDCP is not getting a new refresh key. Here, replace the cable or make it shorter. If all else fails, try conditioning or using an HDMI amplifier.

HDMI Cables and Connector: Another possible source of HDMI problems is the +5V power line used to power the display's DDC communication circuitry when it's turned off. If this power supply is weakened, communication problems can occur. Some HDMI switchers, splitters and LED-illuminating cables take their power from this line, which is asking for trouble.

HDMI Pin 19, the hot Plug Detect, is 50 per cent shorter than the others, so tends to be the first to disconnect if the HDMI plug is loose.

Bear in mind too that HDMI cables don't like being bent signal timing is critical, so twists and turns can degrade performance, particularly over long distances. HDMI performance can also vary between different connections that are on the same device; often, due to quirks of circuit board design, one HDMI socket on a TV offers inferior performance to another.



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